Why should I clean my carpets and furniture?

OK, not too many people actually ask us this, but we want to mention a couple of things. The most obvious reason to clean your soft surfaces is so they'll look good, however, clean carpets and fabrics also facilitate a healthier environment. Carpets, furniture and draperies can act as "filters" and "sinks", trapping soil, oils, and allergens.  Dry soil can work down deep into the fibers and, if left there, cause premature wear and deterioration. For the same reasons that we change the oil in our cars and brush our teeth, our furnishings need regular maintenance.  Clearly, furnishings that receive regular cleaning will last longer, and look and smell better in the meantime.

Is your product environmentally friendly...is it green?

Yes, all of our protectors are safe, non-toxic, and are derived from organic compounds. They do not harm the ozone layer, and pose no health risk to humans. They are listed as being green in the Green Chemicals handbook.

What type of cleaning method do you use?

We employ several types of cleaning methods, depending on the circumstances - the area to be cleaned, the type and degree of soiling, and the type of fiber the carpet or fabric is made of. The method we use most frequently for carpets, rugs, and fabrics is hot water, or "steam" extraction.  Some fabrics and rugs require dry cleaning, and occasionally, a combination of methods is needed for optimum results. 

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How often should I call you for cleaning?

Cleaning frequency depends a lot on usage. If carpets and furnishings are located in high traffic areas, like family rooms, hallways, stairs, etc, then cleaning is required more often than if they are located in lower traffic areas, such as bedrooms, or more formal living areas. Often, we suggest to our customers that they at least clean the "traffic areas" of a lightly soiled room.  The expense is less than that of a full wall-to-wall cleaning.  Alternating cleanings between "wall-to-wall" and "traffic areas only" saves time and money, but offers one other benefit - we'll be in your home a little more often, and we'll be able to take care of those little spots and areas of light soiling on the rest of the furniture and carpets while we're there.  Often there's no charge - or only a small charge - for these "while-you're-here-you-might-as-well"'s.  The net result is that, when we leave, the whole house can look great without your actually having had to pay for more than what you needed.  Our number one goal is to make sure your home or office looks as good as it can as often as it can!  Bottom line answer:  Most carpets should be cleaned at least once yearly.  And by the way, you shouldn't wait for things to look noticably soiled before cleaning them - that may be too late.

Well, not necessarily.  Here are some ways your possessions can be damaged by improper cleaning:

• Over-wetting - too much water left in the carpet or fabric

• Too high an alkalinity in the detergents used

• Too high a temperature for certain fibers

• Poor rinsing - detergent or other residue left in the fibers

• Use of cationic detergent where anionic is specified

• Use of overly aggressive dry solvents on solvent-sensitive material, or use of water on dry-clean-only material.

When the proper amount of the proper detergents and solvents are used at the correct temperature and all residues are removed, then cleaning is never detrimental.  In fact, leaving your carpets or fabrics in a soiled condition is harmful to them.  Spots, spills, and stains become more difficult to remove the longer they're left alone.  Soil residue will "grind" away at soft fibers.  Oils will polymerize and bond to some fibers, causing permanent yellowing in some cases.

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Do I need to be concerned about any harmful residues?

Absolutely not!  We would not knowingly introduce anything toxic into your environment.  We use safe, yet effective detergents and solvents in all of our cleaning and protection.  MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheets) are available on all the chemicals we use, and we will provide whatever information on them that we can.  If we need to spray anything that might cause you discomfort, we'll let you know, get your permission first, and ventilate thoroughly during and after application. We use gentle, softened water to thoroughly flush and rinse away all soil and detergent residues from your carpets and fabrics, leaving them soft, fresh, and germ-free!

How long does your protection last? 

That depends.  Fiber-Shield products have been shown under laboratory tests to outperform every other fluoropolymeric protector on the market.  It's very durable!  Fiber-Shield will not wash out with cleaning, but it can begin to wear off with heavy use.  Here's our rule of thumb:  If your treated item has had enough use - enough abrasion - that cleaning is required, then have us clean it, and we will reapply the Fiber-Shield protector at no charge.

Will the Fiber-Shield protector change the appearance or texture of my fabric?

No, once the Fiber-Shield protector is applied and fully cured, you can't see it, smell it, or feel it...but you can see it working!

Why does my chenille fabric have these light spots?

Occasionally, we'll get a call from a client, "I have a light spot on my chenille fabric. Can you come and remove it?" If it has been caused by a water-based spill, then no, we may not be able to remove it. Often, a color change of this sort on a velvet or chenille has been caused by contact with water, or a water-based spill. Chenille (French for "caterpillar") is often chosen for its ultra-soft, luxurious "hand". It is basically a less dense version of velvet, and is generally made out of cotton, synthetic blends, and / or rayon. Its lack of density can lead to a "matting" of the pile in high-use areas, particularly seat cushions, and those flattened areas will appear lighter. Rayon chenille, in particular,will absolutely not accept any contact with water. If it becomes wet, the pile is irreversibly and permanently changed. Specifically, the fabric loses its resilience. As a result, the fabric becomes "directional". When new, a rayon chenille pile will not show an appreciable change in appearance when brushed first one way, then another. However, after wetting, it will behave more like some velvets, which can lighten and darken dramaticallywhen you reverse pile direction. Also, the pile will tend to lay down flat, and no longer stand up straight, thus bouncing more light back, and appearing lighter, rather than absorbing and shading light between strands. The only ultimate solution in some cases is to wet clean the entire piece, thus creating a uniform, if not ideal, appearance. (And even then, some concerns remain; a less-than-meticulous cleaning can yield a streaky, uneven appearance.) Until that time comes, your chenille should probably be protected with Fiber-Shield, in order to maximize its water repellancy, and minimize risk of pile distortion.

I've been told that my wool carpet has natural soil and stain resistance, so why should I have it protected?

Color-enhanced photo of wool fibers. The scales you see are the outer layer, called the "cuticle", or the "epidermis".

1) A wool fiber is comprised of three layers, with the outer layer providing the natural protection due primarily to its lanolin content. That's what gives wool its soft, luxurious "hand". That outer layer can be damaged or removed with too high a temperature and/or too-aggressive detergents. Since your wool needs to be kept clean, and must be cleaned gently, doesn't it make sense to protect it?

2) Wool has excellent soil-hiding properties - it can hold a lot of soil before appearing to need cleaning. Of course, by then, the grit is wearing away at your carpet fibers. Again, wouldn't it make sense to apply a protector that will assist in your vacuuming efficiency, and minimize damage from soil abrasion?

3) Wool has a high affinity for acids. That's the reason it takes acid dyes so well, and can be tinted in such a rich, subtle color palette. For the same reason, your wool has a high susceptibility to acid stains, such as urine, coffee, vomit, etc. A wool rug's lanolin content and stain resistance can vary greatly, and you may find out too late that it did not have the natural resistance needed to handle that spill. In this case, an ounce of prevention can buy some peace of mind!

4) Wool is beautiful, and it's expensive. With proper care and maintenance, a high quality wool floorcovering can last a lifetime. Isn't it wise to make a small investment in order to preserve a substantial one?

What type of spot is the most difficult to remove?

That's difficult to answer, but generally, acidic spills present the most challenges, primarily because carpeting is receptive to acid-based colorants. Specifically, coffee can be difficult because it is generally hot, and the heat acts as a catalyst for dye reaction. Another difficult stain is urine, which also goes on at an elevated temperature. Urine starts out acidic, and forms salts which aren't soluble in water, so cannot be readily rinsed out. To further complicate things, urine then breaks down into other reactive chemicals, and becomes very alkaline. So, the acid in urine sets the yellow stain, and then alkalinity further damages and bleaches the carpet fiber. Meantime, the urine has seeped into the carpet backing, padding, and sometimes even the subfloor, creating odor problems that can be tough to fix. Other tough spills include ink, orange juice, tomato sauce, tea, mustard, and the like. Here's a tip for your red wine spill: Blot up what you can, then use white wine to rinse it out! In the chemistry of carpet stain removal, the first rule is "like displaces like". That's why our simple homemade spot removal formula has acidic vinegar in it - and by the way - it's a better choice than the white wine.

I thought sisal was easy to clean...is that true?

Sisal floorcoverings have been growing in popularity in recent years. Sisal is a natural fiber derived from plant leaves, and ranges in tone from light brown to ivory/gold, and is sometimes dyed or paint-decorated. It's tightly woven in rugs, and that weave tends to trap dry soil, so sisal needs to be vacuumed frequently. The nature of the weave tends to make the rug shrink and distort when cleaned with water-based cleaning systems. Alternative cleaning methods include "dry" foam cleaning, bonnet cleaning, dry solvent cleaning, or dry powder (such as "Host" or "Capture"). Often, sisal is blended with other types of fibers, such as wool. Backings vary, and some of them are susceptible to damage from dry solvents. Additionally, sisal fibers can "bleed" natural colorants very easily - this can be problematic, particularly when there's been a spill, and staining has occurred. Sisal rugs installed wall-to-wall can usually be cleaned without fear of shrinkage, but in every situation, care must be taken in order to avoid problems.

What's the one most important thing I can do to keep my things looking their best?

Vacuum! Buy a good vacuum with a good filter and use it frequently. That keeps dust and dry soil from accumulating on your furniture, draperies, carpets, and floors. Household dust is acidic, and dusty fabrics weaken and fade prematurely. Remember, when your soft surfaces are clean, your Fiber-Shield protector is better able to help keep them clean. Here's a suggested schedule:

Flooring areas within 15 feet of entrances: once per day.

Flooring areas receiving daily use: 2 or 3 times per week.

Furniture receiving regular use: Once per month

Lightly used furniture and window treatments: Once every six months.

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